November is when Paris slows down and gets cosy. The summer crowds are long gone, the autumn exhibition season is in full swing, and from mid-month the first Christmas markets and lights bring the city back to life after dark. If you enjoy museums, photography, fashion history or simply a long lunch followed by a walk along the Seine, November 2026 is an excellent time to visit.
Here is what to see and do in Paris in November 2026, with dates checked on October 28, the weather to expect and practical tips for planning your trip.
November 2026 at a glance
- November 11 – Armistice Day, a public holiday in France
- November 12 – La Défense Christmas market opens
- November 12–15 – Paris Photo at the Grand Palais
- November 15 – 10 km HOKA Paris Centre
- November 19 – Beaujolais Nouveau day (third Thursday of November)
- November 22 – Champs-Élysées Christmas lights and market (date announced in the press)
- November 26 – Notre-Dame Christmas market opens
- November 27 – Period ball at the Hôtel de la Marine
Weather in Paris in November 2026
November is the month when Paris settles into winter. Expect daytime highs of around 11°C (52°F), nights of about 5°C (41°F) and a monthly average close to 8°C (46°F), with ten to twelve rainy days – mostly grey and drizzly rather than stormy. A warm coat, a scarf, waterproof shoes and a compact umbrella will serve you well.
Clocks went back on October 25, so the sun sets around 5:10 p.m. at the start of the month and just before 5 p.m. by the end. Plan your museum visits for the afternoon and keep the early evening for the Christmas lights. For more detail, see our guide to Paris in November: weather, what to wear and what to do.
Top exhibitions in Paris in November 2026
The autumn season brings some of the year’s biggest shows, and every exhibition below is still on in November. Most run until late January, so there is no need to rush – but book timed tickets for weekends.
The big three: Orsay, Louvre and Grand Palais
Mary Cassatt, L’indépendante – Musée d’Orsay (October 6, 2026 – January 31, 2027)
A major retrospective of about 80 works, marking the centenary of the death of Mary Cassatt, the only American woman in the Impressionist group. The Orsay stays open late on Thursday evenings, a good moment to avoid the crowds. Also on at the Orsay until January 31: Auguste Bartholdi, Liberty Enlightening the World. Orsay Museum: tickets and practical information
Zurbarán (1598–1664) – Musée du Louvre (October 7, 2026 – January 25, 2027)
A retrospective of the great Spanish Baroque painter in the Hall Napoléon, with around 65 paintings, organised with the National Gallery in London and the Art Institute of Chicago. A second show in the same space, Sculpting Colour, presents 23 Spanish sculptures of the 17th century. The Louvre is closed on Tuesdays. Louvre Museum: tickets and practical information
Cézanne et nous – Grand Palais (September 23, 2026 – January 17, 2027)
Around 180 works, including some 70 by Cézanne, show how his painting inspired generations of artists, from Picasso and Matisse to Joan Mitchell, Bridget Riley and Peter Doig. The exhibition is a co-production with the Musée d’Orsay and the Centre Pompidou.
Musée d’Art Moderne: three exhibitions in one visit
The Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris (11 avenue du Président Wilson, open Tuesday to Sunday, with late opening on Thursday) hosts three shows at once, which makes for a very efficient visit.
Kerry James Marshall, The Histories (September 18, 2026 – January 24, 2027)
The first major exhibition in France devoted to the American painter, with 70 works including eight new paintings made for the show. Marshall places Black life and history at the centre of the grand tradition of painting.
Simone Fattal, Des villes au fond d’un lac (September 18, 2026 – January 24, 2027)
The first monographic exhibition in a Paris museum of the Lebanese-American artist, born in Damascus in 1942: around a hundred paintings, ceramics and collages spanning fifty years.
Prix Marcel Duchamp 2026 (October 2, 2026 – February 7, 2027)
Works by the four nominees – Joël Andrianomearisoa, Brognon Rollin, Laura Henno and Josèfa Ntjam. Brognon Rollin was named the winner on October 22. Admission is free, with no booking required.
Women artists and fashion
Eva Gonzalès, Parcours d’une artiste libre – Petit Palais (September 15, 2026 – January 24, 2027)
The first major retrospective of Eva Gonzalès (1847–1883), Édouard Manet’s only pupil, who died at 36 and was long overshadowed by her contemporaries. The Petit Palais is also one of the most beautiful museum buildings in Paris.
Un vestiaire à soi. Féminités dissidentes au 19e siècle – Palais Galliera (September 26, 2026 – February 14, 2027)
A fashion exhibition on the women of the 19th century who borrowed men’s clothing – riding habits, trousers, suits and ties – and redefined their place in society. The Palais Galliera is a short walk from the Musée d’Art Moderne.
L’étoffe de l’artiste. De Rosa Bonheur à Sonia Delaunay – Musée Bourdelle (September 23, 2026 – January 24, 2027)
Little-known garments worn by artists such as Gustav Klimt, Rosa Bonheur, Foujita and Sonia Delaunay, and how clothes helped them build their public image. A calm, original outing in Montparnasse.
Photography: Paris Photo and Nadar
Paris Photo – Grand Palais (November 12–15, 2026)
The leading international fair dedicated to photography returns for its 29th edition, which celebrates the Bicentenary of Photography, with more than 200 exhibitors from some 30 countries. If you are in Paris that weekend, it is the one date to plan around.
Nadar: inventer Paris, des profondeurs au ciel – Catacombes de Paris (September 29, 2026 – January 31, 2027)
An unusual exhibition underground, on the pioneering photographer Nadar, who photographed the Catacombes by electric light and took the first aerial views of Paris from a balloon. Because the original prints are very fragile, the show presents reproductions. It is included in the Catacombes ticket; booking is strongly recommended, and the site is closed on Mondays.
Christmas markets and lights: the season starts in mid-November
Paris gets into the Christmas spirit early. Three openings fall in November:
La Défense Christmas Market (November 12 – December 31)
The largest Christmas market in the Paris region, on the Parvis de La Défense, free to enter and a short ride on metro line 1 from central Paris.
Champs-Élysées lights and Christmas market (from November 22)
The switch-on of the avenue’s Christmas lights is announced for Sunday, November 22, the same day the Christmas market returns at the Place de la Concorde end of the avenue after a long absence. The date comes from press reports, so check the organisers’ announcement before you plan around it.
Notre-Dame Christmas Market (November 26 – December 27)
Around forty chalets of French makers and craftspeople in the Square René Viviani, on the Left Bank opposite the cathedral. Free to enter; the nearest metro stops are Cité and Saint-Michel.
For every market, light display and shop window, see our Christmas in Paris 2026 guide, and for the month that follows, our guide to Paris in December 2026.
More things to do in Paris in November
Festival d’Automne (until December 19)
One of the most important contemporary arts festivals in Europe, with 75 projects in 58 venues across Paris and the region: theatre, dance, music and visual arts. In November, the programme includes Rebecca Saunders and the Ensemble intercontemporain at the Grand Palais on November 21.
10 km HOKA Paris Centre (Sunday, November 15)
A flat 10 km race that starts on the rue de Rivoli and finishes on the avenue de l’Opéra. Even if you are not running, the area is lively that morning, but allow extra time to get around the streets near Rivoli and the Opéra.
Period ball at the Hôtel de la Marine (Friday, November 27, 5:30–8:30 p.m.)
The “Bal 1900” with animal dances (quadrille, waltz, polka) takes place in the historic state rooms on the Place de la Concorde. You need to book a ball ticket on the Hôtel de la Marine website.
Beaujolais Nouveau (Thursday, November 19)
The new Beaujolais is released on the third Thursday of November, and many bars and bistros celebrate it that evening.
Armistice Day (Wednesday, November 11)
A public holiday in France: expect ceremonies around the Arc de Triomphe in the morning and some shops closed. Check opening hours before you set out.
Looking for something to do right now? Our weekend agenda is updated every week.
Practical tips for visiting Paris in November
Book timed-entry tickets. The Orsay (Cassatt), the Louvre (Zurbarán), the Grand Palais (Cézanne) and the Catacombes (Nadar) are the busiest, especially on weekends.
Check closing days. The Orsay is closed on Mondays and the Louvre on Tuesdays. The Musée d’Art Moderne, the Petit Palais, the Palais Galliera and the Musée Bourdelle are closed on Mondays.
Dress in layers. A warm coat, a scarf and waterproof walking shoes make the difference on damp, cobbled streets.
Use the short days. Museums in the afternoon, lights and markets after sunset. A Seine cruise on a dry evening is a lovely way to see the illuminated monuments – browse our Paris dinner cruises and river boat tours.
Come late in the month for the festive mood. The Notre-Dame market opens on November 26 and the Champs-Élysées lights are announced for November 22, so the last week of November is the most atmospheric.
Suggested 3-day plan for November 2026
Day 1: Morning at the Musée d’Orsay (Mary Cassatt) → lunch in Saint-Germain → afternoon walk along the Seine or in the Luxembourg Gardens.
Day 2: The Louvre (Zurbarán), on any day except Tuesday → stroll through the Tuileries → in the evening, a Seine cruise or the Champs-Élysées lights (from November 22). If you are in Paris between November 12 and 15, swap the Louvre for Paris Photo at the Grand Palais.
Day 3: Musée d’Art Moderne (Kerry James Marshall, Simone Fattal, Prix Marcel Duchamp) → the Palais Galliera, a short walk away → sunset at the Trocadéro, then a Christmas market in the evening (La Défense from November 12, Notre-Dame from November 26).
Conclusion
Paris in November 2026 combines the best of the autumn art season with the first Christmas lights: Cassatt, Zurbarán and Cézanne in the big museums, a month of photography around Paris Photo and the Bicentenary, and festive markets that open from mid-month. For more ideas, see our selection of the 50 best things to do in Paris. Dates and opening hours were checked on October 28, 2026 and can change, so confirm them on the official websites before you go.
Discover more from StillinParis
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.